An expedition to Fiji? My friends said I’m nuts. You will die there – they said. So many hours on a plane, and the heat, cyclones and cannibals. My curiosity about the world pushed me to this escapade.
Wonderful, beautiful beaches with white sand, colourful islands, blue water and heavenly hotels shaded by coconut palms. That’s how most of us imagine Fiji. Of course you may find all those things in Fiji, and even more of them.
As in the case of Polynesian paradise, the guest that come out of a plane are welcomed by locals dressed in colourful skirts, with hibiscus flowers in their hair. They decorate each newcomer with strings of colourful shells. They welcome you with Bula Bula, which means “how are you” in Fijian language. I must admit it is a good method. Only after a while everybody, even people most tired after a long flight (only 30 hours with breaks), enjoy the fantastic atmosphere and cry Bula Bula. Transkontinental planes land in the city of Nadi. It is the touristy capital city of the country, the best place where your can start your exploration. When looking for a hotel I decided to trust a billboard put at the airport: “Fiji consists of 33 tropical islands, find your own!” I’m going to Sonaisali Island Resort that is located a few kilometers away from the city. You may reach the hotel, that is built on a small island, only by boat. The receptionists welcome us with Bula Bula. I’m slowly getting convinced that it’s normal in Fiji. – Now get some rest and in the evening, after the dinner, I invite you for a cofee – says Terry Gortal, who is responsible for entertaining the guests. I loose myself in the dillemas of tourists. What shall I choose – the sea or the swimming pool, more sophisticated drinks or a handsome bartender.
But I’m in the land of cannibals
There are no cannibals here, we ate the last one last month. An old Fiji joke gets a new life. From our point of view, history of Fiji is quite short. The first European, who reached Fiji during his journey to the lands we call today Indonesia, was Abel Tasman. It happened in 1643. The peoples who lived on the archipelago and ate their enemies, deserved the opinion of being cruel and bloodthirsty. The white people avoided any contacts with natives. Cannibalism was banned when the islands, located in the strategic point of the Pacific, came under English control. Fiji owes its structure of the population to them. Almost half of it are Indians, brought to work on sugar cane plantations.
Remembering that islands are the real Fiji, I’m setting off to admire the Mamanuca Islands. A well-developed network of ferry lines ensures excellent communication. On a ferry I can hear…, yes! Bula Bula, sit and observe other passengers. You can see that Fiji is an interchange station on the Pacific – there are Melanesians, Polynesians, Indians and the Chinese. Exotic people, exotic names. I pass by the Treasure Island, the Island of Long Houses…
I’m going to the Matamanoa Island. If I have never been in paradise before, where am I now? The hotel is located on a tiny island, it is composed of 20 cabins imitating old Fijian huts, that are called “bura”. One of the problems you have to encounter when selecting the cabin is whether you want a sunrise or a sunset view.
Coral reef is one of the greatest attractions. What can we find underwater? I lack adjectives. It’s just wonderful! Fish are fish, colourful like everywhere. But the beauty of corals, crustaceans, sea anemones and other weird things I’m not even able to name is stunning.
And what do we think about when we are in a good mood? About coffee! This beverage has nothing in common with coffee. Made of ground yagona roots, it is a suspension of powder that looks and tastes like plaster diluted in warm water. It works a bit like a drug and calms you down when you hear Bula Bula. Coffee does not intoxicate, even if your drink lots of it. After a few cups I’m afraid I’ll have some dyspepsia.
Let’s try! Let’s not be afraid of new things and words (like Bula Bula for example) if we know that our thoughts will find their own reality in the world. Bula Bula!
Zofia Suska – a traveller and journalist
an author of TV reports “Podróże z Zofią Suską”
